The Steps to Replace Your Pitman Arm (2)

 The Steps to Replace Your Pitman Arm (2)

 

Automotive Idler Arms and Pitman Arms are part of your steering system that links your steering box to the center link, and then on to the hub assemblies. The Pitman Arm, also known as the "steering arm," is the main player while the idler arm supports the other side and allows the proper movement to take place when you turn the wheel. If your steering has gotten sloppy they may need replacement. Signs of this are your steering wheel moving 2 inches or more from side to side without turning the wheels at all, front end shimmy that can't be attributed to out-of-balance wheels, or lurches to the left or right when you go over a bump. Sometimes only one is bad, but many people say that replacing both of them is easy, good

 insurance, and doesn't cost much more because the labor is essentially free (since you already have to take everything apart to replace one or the other.) If you think it's time, read on and you'll be able to get them replaced in no time. And thanks to Chuck for the chance to show you how on his Hummer! Be sure you have all your tools for replacing the Pitman arm before you start. It's tough to go to the auto store with no steering! What You'll Need: 18mm - 1/2 drive wrench and socket Pitman arm puller 1-5/16 - 3/4 drive

 (big) Socket and breaker bar to remove pitman nut 5/16 - 1/2 drive Socket and a long breaker bar / pipe 11/16 and 5/8 - 1/2 drive socket and wrench Torque wrench that goes to 180 ft lbs Diag wire cutter Flat head screwdriver Needle nose pliers Jack stands and a floor jack Grease 2 Cotter pins 1/8 x 1-1/2 New Pitman arm Got it together? We're ready to replace that Pitman. We have to get it in the air, so jack the left side (most cases, see your repair manual if you're not sure) of the truck up under the A-arm and put a jack stand under the frame on the left side. Lower the truck down on the jack stand and remove the wheel. You

 have to remove the big nut that holds the Pitman arm to the steering box. In this case, it was a 1-5/16 nut that was torqued to 180 ft lbs. I used a 3/4" drive socket and a big-mother breaker bar. I was all ready for a battle and it turned out that the nut was hardly tight at all. It came right off, which was not a good thing. Loose is never good when you're talking about steering. Find out more about idler arm factory by visit tahiko.com. Olivia Tong is the freelance writer for e-commerce website tahiko.com and ekko-rubber.com offers the buyers around the world to find quality and discount auto parts. We try our best to aggregate leads in the business world, and let these leads benefit the entire business person.